best days
another was actually a night, a rebecca st. james concert. i had been to plenty of concerts before, but this one was amazing like none other. she was accompanied by a small orchestra, and most of the instruments i didn't even recognize. the music had a haunting quality, a slight dissonance, that made me feel like i was hearing angels. i have never experienced that feeling before or since.
once was hiking in the weminuche. most in the group i was with were not in shape, not prepared for the kind of hiking we needed to do, not smart about the amount of weight they brought in their packs. it became clear soon on that we would not be able to complete the loop that would have made this a 50-mile hike. instead, we had gone about a third of the way around the loop, and then turned around to go back the way we came. it was the worst disppointment for me. from here it would all be paths i had already walked, taking me closer to the world i came here to be away from.
i arrived before midday at the Y where the trail made the split and made camp, but i knew that the stragglers would not get there before late afternoon. i filled a bottle at the icy stream for a quart of instant lemonade and drank it all. i sat in the shade, leaned against a tree and asked myself "now what?" to the right was the trail that we had traveled twice now, once going up and once coming back. to the left was the trail that we should have come down. i pulled out my contour map and looked at the trail. a series of lakes, the first and largest one, emerald lake. about 4 miles, but a 2000 foot change in elevation. it was what they call 'a coming down trail, not a going up trail'. a tough hike. but i had a half-day, and i only needed to carry a day pack, not the full pack that i would otherwise have carried, so do-able.
at first the trail was only a mild uphill grade. i crossed a stream and waded though a small meadow of waist-high sunflowers. shortly after that though, i hit the first of a seemingly endless series of switchbacks. back and forth, the narrow, rocky trail zig-zagged up the mountainside. once i topped one hill, there might be a short downhill stretch before another long uphill. it went on for 4 hours. i pushed hard because i knew i didn't have an excess of time. maybe this was not such a good idea. i was sweaty, wearing out, and the fun had gone out a couple miles back. i no longer cared that i was seeing something new -- this was work. finally i had enough. i knew i should be fairly close, but with mountains on all sides i couldn't find any distinct landmarks to tell exactly where i was. i decided to top the hill i was on, rest a few minutes and head back down. i was out of time.
as i crested the hill, i got a surprise. there it was. a lake, bright beautiful green. ha, of course. emerald lake. shoulda guessed that. after i got over my initial amazement, i went on over to it. the shore i was on had a stand of pines, and the opposite side was bound by a mountain. i stripped down to my briefs and waded into the water up to my thighs. it was frigid. i stood in it for a minute and splashed water on myself to try to acclimate to the cold. medium-sized trout swam close enough for me to see but not touch. well, i came all this way. ought to at least take a swim. i took a deep breath, braced myself, and fell into the crystal water. the shock was immediate, and when i came up my breath came in shudders. okay, i swam. i waded back to the shore and leaned against a huge boulder to draw heat from it. still shaking, i got dressed for the off-chance that other hikers might come down the trail from above.
i wanted to stay, but knew i couldn't. the afternoon was almost gone, and i wasn't sure how long it would take to get back. i stood at the waters edge for a minute to take it in. this was a special place, i knew. not a place that you could drive up to and step out of the car to see. it took work to get here, and statistically at least, very few would ever stand here. i could never find the words to describe the feeling of it. this is where i belong.
i turned and started down the trail, back to the world.